CAPANNA MARGHERITA 4554m
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The Capanna Margherita sits at 4,554m atop Punta Gnifetti, making it the highest mountain hut in Europe. It was named after Queen Margherita of Savoy, who attended its inauguration on August 18, 1893. The hut as we see it today is the result of a major renovation in 1980 and now offers 70 beds, along with Europe’s highest weather station and library.
Reaching the highest refuge in Europe is an unforgettable experience, attracting hundreds of climbers every summer. The route, set in the heart of the Monte Rosa Massif, isn’t technically difficult but crosses a vast glacier, requiring climbers to move roped together. The altitude and 1,100m elevation gain demand good endurance and aerobic fitness.
This climb is a great goal even for those without mountaineering experience—as long as they’re in good shape and motivated. For those with prior alpine climbs under their belt, it’s an excellent test of fitness before tackling bigger challenges like Mont Blanc.
You can also add the ascent of Punta Zumstein upon request.
Tip: To make the most of this experience, it’s best to plan ahead and allow time to acclimatize. A great way to prepare is by doing a warm-up climb, like the Breithorn or Punta Giordani, in the weeks before.
REACH THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN HUT IN EUROPE
On a route that weaves through the crevasses and seracs of Monte Rosa.
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NO PREVIOUS MOUNTAINEERING EXPERIENCE REQUIRED
However, you need to be phisically fit. A good cardio training is essential.
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A NIGHT IN MOUNTAIN HUT
Spend the night at over 3,000 meters.
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REACHING THE HIGHEST HUT IN EUROPE ISN'T ENOUGH FOR YOU, YOU WANT TO SPEND THE NIGHT THERE AND WATCH THE SUNRISE FROM THE TOP OF PUNTA GNIFETTI?
MAKE IT HAPPEN!
GET IN TOUCH FOR MORE DETAILS.
FITNESS LEVEL 2.5/5
DATES ON DEMAND JUNE-SEPTEMBER
GUIDING RATIO 1:5 MAXIMUM
2 DAYS CLIMB
FROM €250
SCHEDULE
DAY 1: Meet the guide for a gear check and briefing on the itinerary. We’ll take the lifts from Alagna or Gressoney up to Punta Indren (around 3200m), then hike to the Mantova or Gnifetti refuge for dinner and overnight stay. (Elevation gain: 250/400m; time: 1/1.5 hours)
DAY 2: Early wake-up and breakfast before dawn. With headlamps, we’ll climb roped together toward Colle del Lys, then continue to Punta Gnifetti and tackle the final steeper section to reach Capanna Margherita. (Elevation gain: 1100m; time: 3/4 hours). We’ll descend via the same route.
NOTE: The meeting time and location will be arranged at the time of booking.
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT: Helmet, harness, 12-point crampons with anti-balling plates compatible with your boots, classic ice axe, trekking poles, and a 30/40L backpack.
CLOTHING: Mountaineering boots, technical underwear, spare t-shirt, fleece, Gore-Tex jacket or similar, down jacket, Schoeller or similar pants, two pairs of gloves (one light and one heavy), hat, sunglasses (min. cat 3), and sunscreen.
OTHER: Headlamp (with fully charged batteries!), energy snacks, camera, buff, cap with a visor for the sun, gaiters, ski mask (in case of bad weather), sleeping bag liner, and essentials for staying in the refuge.
NOTE: If you have any doubts about your gear or need to make any purchases for the climb, don’t hesitate to reach out. I’ll be happy to help you choose the best equipment for your needs.
Is any of your technical gear missing? You can rent it! Click HERE.
COST
1 PERSON: € 800
2 PEOPLE: € 400 per person
3 PEOPLE: € 300 per person
4 PEOPLE: € 250 per person
5 PEOPLE: € 250 per person
INCLUDED OR NOT
INCLUDED IN THE PRICE: Instruction and support from the guide, use of shared equipment.
NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE: Travel expenses to the location, lift costs, hut or other accommodation with half board both for the participants and the guide (costs will be shared among participants), technical equipment, extras, and anything not listed under "included in the price."
Is any of your technical gear missing? You can rent it! Click HERE.
RESERVATION
To confirm your reservation, a deposit is required.
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